The menu

Mackerel cured 6 hours in salt and lemon zest, dressed with Castelvetrano olive oil and a splash of the chef's mom's Marsala.

Stracciatella from Apulia, Taggiasca olive oil, warm sourdough toast.

Veal and pork meatballs in slow-simmered tomato, finished with ricotta salata.

Three meats from Emilia, two cheeses from Sicily, mostarda, focaccia.

Eggplant, celery, capers, raisins, pine nuts, sweet-and-sour. Sicilian summer in a bowl.

Tonnarelli, Pecorino Romano, black pepper. Finished tableside in the Sicilian shepherd's-cheese tradition. Eight ingredients, none of them cream.

Maccheroni, eggplant fried in olive oil, San Marzano tomato, salted ricotta, basil.

Egg pasta cut every morning. 5-hour beef and pork ragù in the Bolognese style.

Manila clams, white wine, garlic, parsley, breadcrumbs.

Bucatini, fresh sardines, wild fennel, pine nuts, saffron, currants. The Sicilian classic.

Whole branzino baked in parchment with fennel, blood orange, Castelvetrano olives. Opened tableside.

Aged ribeye for two, salt-and-rosemary, finished with new olive oil. About 35 oz.

Bone-in chicken thigh, tomato, olives, capers, rosemary. Slow-braised.

Made in-house every afternoon. Sheep's-milk ricotta, candied orange, pistachios from Bronte. Filled to order.

Mascarpone, espresso, savoiardi, Marsala. The classic, no shortcuts.

Vanilla gelato drowned in a double espresso. Optional shot of amaro on top.